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Trevor Pepys reviews Paradise Arcade, Noosa Junction
By now Trevor’s passion for all things Mexican is well known, and his mostly fruitless search for something more authentic than an over-cheesed plate of nachos well documented. But on a rainy night in January he found shelter and salvation at That Mexican Joint, and on a moonlit evening in March he fell into Paradise Arcade, which looked enough like Hussong’s Cantina in Ensenada to have him at hello.
Of course such romantic fantasies are destined to disappoint, and such was the case here at the Paradise end of Arcadia Walk, but we at least had a little fun along the way.
Paradise Arcade advises walk-ups rather than reservations for small groups, so Trev and the missus walked up early, just in case, but clearly not early enough, for the after-work crowd had nabbed all the good outside tables and we had to perch uncomfortably at the bar. On the other hand, this gave us an unobstructed view of the crazy ceiling collage – starting the Hussong’s fantasy – as well as a not-so-attractive glimpse up the shorts leg of a bloke sitting above in the crowded mezzanine. We quickly turned our attention to the menu, while hailing down a waitperson to bring house margaritas ($12) lickety split.
Because we were in a bar – and Paradise is really just that, albeit with a few frills – we decided to eat off the “compartir con amigos” (sharing with friends) starters list and made a tapas-style selection as we slurped up the classic margies – excellent and good value.
The missus went for a generous serving of guacamole and corn chips with Pico de Gallo ($12) and stuffed jalapeno poppers served with lime mayo ($13), while Trev was so surprised to see marinated raw fish being offered under its proper name that he just had to order the ceviche ($20), a local white fish with agauchile, tomato, avocado, cilantro, lime, jalapeno and watermelon, and a round of beef taquitos ($14). The margies now drained, we decided to wash it all down with a bottle of Torres Vina Sol ($42), a dependable Spanish dry white quaffer.
The service was slow and the hipster waitress seemed resentful that we were hungry, and that, well, it doesn’t take long to throw some guaca in a bowl and serve with chips. But the wine was pleasant and, inspired by the surroundings, we had time to plan our next trip to Mexico, in around 2030, if we’re lucky. When it finally came, the tucker was a mixed bag.
The cerviche was a little bland, the marinade too tart for my liking, but the jalapeno poppers were excellent and, the surprise star of the evening, the taquitos, were beautifully rolled corn tortillas, with beef, onion, queso and coriander, served with guaca and sour cream. A good combination of flavours to finish on.
The verdict: Good Mexy bar food served in a fun and funky environment (despite our waitress). Worth another visit to explore beyond the starters, and maybe book a comfortable outside table.
Paradise Arcade, Arcadia Walk, Noosa Junction. Phone 5324 1395.