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Trevor Pepys reviews Alba by Kuruvita
Trev is back! Yes, even semi-professional restaurant reviewers need a break, and having had to fend for yourselves these past couple of weeks in the way of where to eat, I’m sure dear readers you will be very relieved.
Not that you’ve had too much choice in restaurants since Christmas, with far too many of them having to close for Covid isolation. But things seem to be normalising a little, including Trev himself, who went down like a sack for a few days but is now the proud possessor of a negative RAT (which is what we used to call our headmaster back in the day) which sits proudly on the mantle alongside the junior badminton trophies and the pre-school poetry prize.
But that’s enough about Trev, let’s talk about where Trev ate.
And on a showery midweek evening, he and the missus schlepped up several hills to get to the admirable Peter Kuruvita’s new HQ, Alba by Kuruvita, tucked away in the hills overlooking Lake Weyba. And it must be said the Kuruvita team have done a fine job of reinventing the old Fish site within the Parkridge estate, although a table on the lawn would be a little too close to a hooked tee off the Noosa Springs golf course it overlooks. Inside, however, bars flow seamlessly into dining rooms and providores and much more, all very stylish.
Peter wasn’t there of course. Trev remembers sharing breakfast hoppers with him some time ago when he said, “If a Kuruvita restaurant is any good, it doesn’t need a Kuruvita in it all the time.” Trev admired not only the sentiment but the engaging use of the personal third person.
Now, let’s get down to business. PK fans of old will be relieved to hear that his famous snapper curry is featured, and several tables of tanned people in collar-up polo shirts were hooking in, but we decided to focus on some small plates, starting with half a dozen freshly shucked oysters ($4.50 each) which we washed down with a glass of refreshing Tar and Roses Prosecco ($10).
Next up we had share plates of the Sri Lankan Roti Sambar with red coconut chutney ($10), followed by the Tiger Prawns with Black Pepper and curry leaf sauce ($26) and Seared Yellowfin tuna, twice-cooked pork belly ($25). At some point here we made the transition from bubbles to an excellent Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris ($11) from The Other Wine Co.
Succulent and super-fresh oysters with a drizzle of Tabasco was a perfect starter, and the lightly-spiced roti was delicious. Likewise, the tiger prawns melted on the tongue.
It was only the tuna and pork belly that let us down, which is a shame because the combination could have made it the star of the evening. The pork belly was average, the tiny portion of tuna was burnt not seared.
Fortunately, what was good was very good indeed, and the servings were big enough to make this a substantial light meal.
The verdict: Top marks for ambience, service and most of the food, plus a varied wine list ideal for drinking by the glass. Trev’s first visit wasn’t quite a hole-in-one, but let’s call it a well-played birdie.
Alba by Kuruvita, 3 Alba Close, Noosa Heads. Phone: 5211 1555.