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Trevor Pepys reviews Noosa Boathouse
Lest anyone think that Trev has run out of restaurants to review, let me explain that, au contraire, there are many discoveries still to be made, not to mention new places coming on stream as others depart, but Noosa being the magnet that it is, sometimes visitors insist on going to a favourite.
Such was the case recently when Gold Coast visitors insisted that nothing could surpass a sundowner at the Sunset Bar followed by an upmarket fish and chips down below. No problem here, Trev could go with the flow, and as regular readers can attest, he is a bit of a fan, having some time ago realised that the only place to truly appreciate the hideous floating thingie is from inside looking out. Same same if you’re ever invited to a cocktail party at an upper level of the infamous Chest of Drawers.
But Trev digresses, as he does.
These were good old mates from several lifetimes, and the last time we had bro’d down over seafood was on a grungy pier near Johor Bahru’s film industry complex where we ate mud crabs with our fingers and guzzled jugs of Tiger beer. So clearly they were ready for a touch of luxe.
The sun having set over the river, we descended to our table where the blokes turned the dial up a little with a round of Peroni ($9.50) while the gals settled into a bottle of Dal Zotto Pinot Grigio ($46) and we all munched on a round of charred garlic and herb ciabatta ($13) while we perused the menu. Our guests opted for the New England seafood chowder ($26) and the Knobby snapper ($42) off the fish of the day board, while Trev also went to the board for the ocean trout ($38). The missus contented herself with the chowder and the promise of a nibble on Trev’s trout, if you’ll pardon the expression.
Well, the chowder was a star, deserving of another round of ciabatta for dunking in the big bowls of delicious thick (but not too thick) broth in which swam big chunks of Fraser Island spanner crab and smoked ocean trout, accompanied by sweet corn and prosciutto. Yum.
While we waited for the fish specials to arrive we moved to a bottle of Mountadam Shiraz ($48) which might not normally be paired with seafood, but rules are for fools, and it was superb. The knobby snapper likewise, grilled to perfection and accompanied by a green papaya salad, compressed pineapple, chilli and lime dressing. A simple dish done well.
The same could not be said of Trev’s ocean trout, which was bland and somewhat lost under a sea of Penang curry, tomato and Gympie beans. Not bad, but no cigar.
The verdict: As Trev noted after another revisit a few weeks ago, no establishment can hope to please you to the same degree every time. But the Boathouse lived up to its considerable reputation for three out of four of us, and 75 percent is no shame. Plus, you could add another 10 for friendly, efficient service and the gentle lapping of the Noosa River right next to your table.
Noosa Boathouse, 194 Gympie Terrace, Noosaville, Phone 5440 5070