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Trevor Pepys reviews Rock Salt
Way back in the Neanderthal Period of Noosa dining – say the mid-‘90s – Trev used to sometimes occupy a top-deck table at Steve Cross’s wonderful Saltwater on Hastings Street for libations and fish and chips with that wonderfully rascally architectural genius, the late Gabriel Poole.
Gabe and Trev would tell increasingly unlikely stories while washing down our battered offerings with lashings of Eumundi Lager. Sometimes, however, we’d get adventurous and actually order something off the menu. And guess what? It turned out that Steve’s new chef, a pommy called Stu, could do a bit more than batter a flattie. In fact, he was an ace in the kitchen, and added an interesting new dimension until he went off to do his own thing at Pommies, which turned the traditional stodge of the Old Dart on its head.
About 15 years ago, after a stint as chef at Ricky’s, Stuart Webster and partner Cass went out on their own again, still in Quamby Place, with Rock Salt, an unprepossessing hole in the wall that has been a favourite of locals ever since.
To be honest, Trev hadn’t eaten at Rock Salt for maybe a decade, certainly not since accepting Noosa Today’s multi-million dollar offer to share his culinary experiences with you dear readers. There were a few reasons for this. For one, the place kind of flies under the radar, filling up most nights with regulars who love its chat-friendly corners, its glimpses of the river and its cool jazz background music almost as much as the food. Trev thought he knew the offering well enough, and therefore knocked off about 60 reviews around town – covering the great, the good, the ordinary and the indifferent – before finally getting around to a place he can walk to from home in six minutes, 40 seconds.
Trev and the missus got comfortable at a corner table and sipped a very fine 2019 Apple Tree Flat Rosé from Mudgee ($45) while surveying the small, efficient menu. Our friendly, attentive waiter suggested the snapper wontons special ($28) and had Trev hooked in a heartbeat. To this we added the 12-hour braised beef cheeks, penang curry, roasted coconut, peanuts, and kaffir lime ($28), and, in homage to Saltwater and good old Gabe, the battered red emperor, rosemary chips, homemade tartare sauce, and lemon wedge ($35).
Serve it as it comes, a couple of share plates and we’re good as gold.
England-trained with experience there and in France, plus many travels through Asia, Stu’s influences are nothing if not varied, but everything is underpinned by his reliance on fresh local produce. Modern Aussie-Asian fusion perhaps, but why try to label it? Just enjoy.
The fried wontons were perfect, allowing the flavours of the fish to permeate the covering. The beef cheeks curry was a minor masterpiece of combination, every element with a distinct flavor and texture. And the battered reefie served with fat chips was a wonderful stroll down memory lane that almost brought tears of joy to Trev, and fits of laughter to the missus, who lacks for sentiment at such times. We were full, but couldn’t resist the butterscotch schnapps crème brulée, with homemade shortbread ($18). A bit rich for Trev, but the missus loved it.
The verdict: On the one hand, it’s just a friendly little joint to get a reliable feed. On the other, how many restaurants take you on such a joyous ride down the Noosa restaurant family tree? Not many. Trev will be back soonish, next time for Stu’s longtime signature of crispy roast duck.
Rock Salt, 2 Quamby Place, Noosa Heads. Phone 54492255.