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Trevor Pepys reviews Bistro C
So someone said Sunday lunch, and Trev said, “How quickly!”
OK, OK, it was Trev talking to himself while he tore apart the archive boxes in his storage shed looking for some bizarre remnant of his dodgy past, but what he dragged up out of the gloom was a box of old local magazines (possibly the first of their kind) in which two beachfront restaurants stood out like beacons.
The first was Eduardo’s in the old Tingirana Arcade, just along from where Betty grilled her famous dollar burgers, and named after the famed Eddie the Fisherman, but owned and operated by Frenchman Jean-Luc and a powerhouse Lancashire lass named Lori Banks. The second was just up the boardwalk at the newish On The Beach complex where, surprise, surprise, our Loz also reigned supreme, this time in partnership with the effervescent chef Di Heaney in a late-century styled bistro they modestly named Dilozo’s – get it?
Move forward a quarter century or so, the complex has changed, not to mention Hastings Street, but On The Beach still hosts the liveliest beachfront eatery in town, now and for many years known as Bistro C, and still owned and managed by the indefatigable Lori Banks, helped by a cast of thousands, including a dish pig or two distantly related to Trev.
We were meant to be a table of four, but Covid intervened – and don’t get Trev started on the selfish wanker super-spreaders who can’t don a mask or take a jab for the common good – so it was just Trev and the missus along for a late lunch on a perfect Sunday. But that was good because Trev had a lot to apologise for following another appalling Friday night boys’ club at the Villa.
Possibly Bistro C has installed a floating wood floor to soften the acoustics since Trev’s last visit, but it is still bloody noisy. But it is noisy because everyone is having fun, including the staff, so if that’s a real complaint, park it. Big tables, big fun, birthdays, anniversaries, early paroles, it’s all being celebrated. Trev ordered a couple of Ruggeri proseccos ($16 a glass) while he perused the sensibly small lunch menu. And one of Trev’s golden rules is that lunch with a view should be light, liquid and long, but easy to navigate.
We ordered half a dozen Pacific oysters ($23) to get things started, with a Mooloolaba Tiger Prawn Tostada ($32) right behind it. With the help of a side of Tabasco, the freshly-shucked oysters came to life on the tongue, exciting even Trev’s jaded palate, and reducing the missus to a trembling mess. The prawn tostada was a fascinating combination of flavours, fresh, light and tangy, the only sour note being a $6.50 surcharge for an extra kingy on a share plate. Come on guys!
Next we opted to share a coconut chicken salad ($29) which of course required a fresh bottle to accompany. And here comes Trev’s usual wine whine. Although advertised on the Bistro C website, the $39 Bistro C house wines do not appear to exist. This is indeed a shame since the climb to the high 50’s is quite steep, but on a glorious sunny winter afternoon, staring at a lake-like Laguna Bay, was Trev going to complain? You bet he was, but he was hosed down quickly and agreed to accept that in the time of Covid there were more important issues, and also the Paringa Estate Mornington Peninsula pinot gris ($60) was spectacularly good, as was the chicken salad, dressed with Asian herbs, shredded wombok and tofu. Such a simple, elegant dish. It was a splendid lunch to share, light, tasty and interesting, so we capped it with a totally indulgent sticky date pudding ($16) with two share spoons, and it too was delicious.
The verdict: Bistro C gets its share of bad raps for slow or rude service etc, but over the years it has consistently delivered the goods in terms of quality food and a great dining experience. It continues to enchant, in a kind of fun, noisy way.
Bistro C, 49 Hastings Street. Phone 54472855.